Improvement in the manufacture of elastic fabrics



M. E. Bowm.. Manufacture of Elastic Fabric.

15.196,871. Y Patented Nov. 6,4187?.

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UN1m- STATES:

MATTnrAs n. BownA, on Urrnn NonwooD, ENGLAND.

IMPROVEMENT IN THE'IMANUFACTYURE 0F ELASTIC FABRICS.

i Specification forming -part of Letters Patent N o. 196,871, dated November 6, 1877; application filed March 16,1877.

'To all whom it mag/concern:

Be it known that I, MATTHIAS EDWARD BOWRA, of Upper Norwood, in the*A county of Surrey, England, have invented a new and useful Improvement in the Manufacture of Elastic Fabrics, fand I hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exactdescription of the same, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, forming part of this specification.

The object of this invention is to `produce an elastic fabric which, for its strength, will have far more elasticity than fabrics of the like class heretofore manufactured, and which will admit o 'f being attached byA sewing to other fabrics, without thefliability of its breaking` away, as is the case with the elastic webbing at present employed to give elasticity to boots, shoes, stays, waistcoat -backs, and parts of other garments. To effect this latter object I provide a selvage for the elastic pieces-say, for thosewhich are intended to be used as side springs to boots, 'and for equivalent purposes.

The manufacture which I propose to improve is that in which a loose fabric, such as is produced in vthe warp-lace machine or a woven fabric cut onthe bias, is united with a sheet of india-rubber or other elastic -compounds.

In manufacturing according to my invention, Itake a loose woven or lznitted fabric,bypreference that produced in the warp-l ace machine, whether composed of silk, cotton, or other fibrous material, and I stretch it until it is reduced in width to about one-thirdv (more or less) of its original measurement. The fabric thus elongated I coat, while still at tension, with an india-rubber solution, for the purpose of affixing the fabric in its elongatedform, and of enabling sheet india-rubber compound to be attached thereto. Suppose, for example, that it is desired to make side springs for boots, I cut the cemented knitted or woven fabric transversely into strips of a breadth somewhat less than the depth of la side spring required. I also cutfrom a sheet of india-rubbercompound (properly vulcanized) strips of some four or live inches in width. These strips I extend lengthwise until theirbreadth is reduced to somewhat less than the breadth of the knittedfabric strips. I then apply to the india-rubber strips lengths of tape, which are laid across them at suitable distances apart, dividing the strips up into tapering wedge-shaped pieces, as indicated in the accompanying drawings at Figure l, where a a are .the wedge-shaped pieces, withvtapes b b at their sides." These tapes I secure in place by india-rubber cement.l

By Ythus arranging the tapes 'on the india-rubber strips, they will, when the compound fab.L rie is cut upi `to pieces suitable for side springs, as hereinafter explained, .form selvages to the side springs or elastic pieces. When the' tapes are in place I turn over the longitudinal edges of the india-rubber strips and secure them by cement, so as to form a double thickness 'of elastic material at such parts as shown in the edge view, Fig. 2 and I may 1n some cases with advantage insert a cord of indiarubber in such` laps, as Ashown at c, Fig. 2, in

order to increase the strength while maintaining the elasticity of the fabric vat that part; or, in place of turning over the edges of thc sheetrubber, I obtain a double thickness at their edges by cement-ing narrow strips of sheetrubber to the inner face thereof. v

While the india-rubber strips are still extended lengthwise, I apply to the surface on lwhich the tapes are laid a-coating of indiarubber cement, in order to attach thereto the cemented knitted fabric before mentioned. In effecting this attachment I rst meisten the cemented surface of the fabric by an indiarubber solvent, and, having brought the moistcned surfaces together, I strain the edges of the india-rubber strips to -brin g them even with the edges of the knitted fabric, taking care, by the interposition of athin metal plate and some other non-absorbent material, to prevent the fabric and india-rubber from coming in contact except at their edges. As the edges are united I shift this plate forward along the strip, and by lateral extension of the indiarubber, as before, cause the india-rubber to unite with the edges of the knitted fabric, when the strips are thusunited for the whole 0f their length, the interposed plate being shifted forward as ythe operation proceeds.

then, by rolling pressure, effect the complete adhesion of the two strips. The india-rubber strip is now to be released from tension, and

allowed to contract lengthwise and regain Aits admit of stitches being p' springs dtache original width. By this means an additional strain is put on the knitted fabric-in the direction of its selvage, and the compound fabric will thus receive a vgreat capacity to yield to a lateral strain. To give closeness and compactness to this compound fabric I next place it on a metal plate heated to about 1300, and by this means I still further contract it and give the knitted fabric an appearance of close texture.

The compound fabric having been shrunk, as above explained, I next cut it up into pieces, severing it, by means of cutting-dies, at the lines d d, between the parallel tapes, and I thus obtain side springs for boots possessing Agreat elasticity and strength, with little tendency to fwear, and with' a selvage that will 'springs in place in the boot 'without the liability ofthel springs to tear away from the stitches. Fig. 3 shows one of these side By 'reference to 4 the opposite edges o f 'the strip form for the s ide springs alternately a top and bottom edge. This isthe consequence of the arrangement adopted for econoinizing the material. There is, however, no necessity 'for the elastic bottomedge; on the contrary, au increased thickness of thematerial at that part would be detrimental to the appearance of the iinished boot. rPhe bottom edge should thereforebe cut' awaynbefore the springs are used, as shown at Fi Y3. e, M y From the oregoinguit understood that, whatever the elastic article manufactured according torny invention, the same plan will Y be adopted for strengthening the side edges:-

used to secure the v Figi .itwill be seen that forated tovpermit of ventilation through the fabric. This perforation may be in theforin of an ornamental device, or of a trade-mark, as indicated by dotsin Fig. 1, anduit may be performed by suitable dies or punches at the time of the cutting up or severing of the strips to form the side springs.

Having now explained the nature of ymy inventiou and the manner 'of carrying it into effeet, I would remark that I am aware that it has been proposed to strengthen sheet-rubber at the edges by inserting between4 two thicknesses of the saine tapes or equivalent inaterial.4 1 do not,therefore, cle-iin the combination of strengtheningstri' s with sheet indiarubber, except `when use'Y inthe production of an elastic fabric, as above described ,What I claim as my invention y The manufacture of compound elastic fab` ries by combining strips of cloth obtained from attenuated knittedor 'woven fabrics with i strips of sheet india-rubber, prepared as above described, and while the latter are held at tension, and n shrinking the .saine on heated plate, as explained; e,

Witnesses:

G, F. Wannen, Winnen M. Hamers, 

